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Trying To Buy A New CR-V

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gmart74

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So I sent an email and said i am pre approved, ready to buy immediately. I wanted the price to be $22k (this was after an internet offer of $23,800 from them). I mentioned to one that I had a trade in. He replied that they could work with me on the trade in to get it down to 22k. lol my trade in is worth 6500 at a minimum so it is obvious they are still trying to sucker me. I clarified the 22k would be the price and then we could talk about the trade in value.
I just cant believe he tried to make it out like a 27k msrp, with him offering me 23,800, and then trying to insinuate he would give me 1800 for my 6500 trade in would be a deal he could possibly swing. that is a thief in my opinion.

All that being said, I still wonder what is truly fair for all involved with a "1 yr old" vehicle that he only has one more week to get rid of before the new model comes in.
 
sabanball

sabanball

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gmart74 said:
So I sent an email and said i am pre approved, ready to buy immediately. I wanted the price to be $22k (this was after an internet offer of $23,800 from them). I mentioned to one that I had a trade in. He replied that they could work with me on the trade in to get it down to 22k. lol my trade in is worth 6500 at a minimum so it is obvious they are still trying to sucker me. I clarified the 22k would be the price and then we could talk about the trade in value.
I just cant believe he tried to make it out like a 27k msrp, with him offering me 23,800, and then trying to insinuate he would give me 1800 for my 6500 trade in would be a deal he could possibly swing. that is a thief in my opinion.

All that being said, I still wonder what is truly fair for all involved with a "1 yr old" vehicle that he only has one more week to get rid of before the new model comes in.
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Having a trade-in adds another factor to the negotiation. Still you should educate yourself as much as possible relative to the value of the trade in using sites such as kbb.com. Use "trade-in value" and be realistic on the self evaluation. If the vehicle has had paint work then you are not going to get top value for it. If it needs tires, has a crack in windshield, obvious fluid leaks on motor then value accordingly. Likewise if you have all service records, any maintenance records, etc then provide when the dealer does the appraisal. Remember you are trying to sell them on your trade.

Once you have a number for trade, then focus/negotiate on the trade difference or the money you put with your car to get their car. In other words, invoice price (minus any rebates, refer to my earlier post) - trade in value = trade difference. Again focus on the trade difference which is "real money" instead of the price of the CR-V or what they give you for trade.

Just from your posts it seems to me that you are getting frustrated with the process and won't end up buying a CR-V especially if you are doing the deal totally over the phone/email. Normally what happens in that situation is the customer just gives up, goes to another dealer and buys a different type vehicle while reassuring themselves they got a better deal since they couldn't deal with the Honda dealers.

Let's try this if you are comfortable doing so... post invoice price of the CRV you want to buy(that is actually on the dealer's lot) along with a link to the MSRP sticker. Then post the trade in value of your vehicle with options/mileage from kbb.com. These 2 values will then give you the trade difference I mentioned above.

We can then compare that number to your figure of $17300 diff and his figure of $22000 diff.
 
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G

gmart74

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Carmax offered 6500 in writing for my car. Every online trade in has put the value at 7000 - 7500. Msrp on a crv ex awd is around 27000 but it varies by 200 300 depending on where I look. Invoice price is hard to find consistent numbers on but 23000-24000. I already have online offers from the dealers for 23 to 24000. Im not frustrated at all. Im just laughing at slimy of a business they try to make it. I can buy now, but I have plenty of time to get this done later.
 
ValuJet

ValuJet

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gmart74 said:
Carmax offered 6500 in writing for my car. Every online trade in has put the value at 7000 - 7500. Msrp on a crv ex awd is around 27000 but it varies by 200 300 depending on where I look. Invoice price is hard to find consistent numbers on but 23000-24000. I already have online offers from the dealers for 23 to 24000. Im not frustrated at all. Im just laughing at slimy of a business they try to make it. I can buy now, but I have plenty of time to get this done later.
Click to expand...
Your Civic - is it tricked out? That could bring a premium in some areas!

 
sabanball

sabanball

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gmart74 said:
Carmax offered 6500 in writing for my car. Every online trade in has put the value at 7000 - 7500. Msrp on a crv ex awd is around 27000 but it varies by 200 300 depending on where I look. Invoice price is hard to find consistent numbers on but 23000-24000. I already have online offers from the dealers for 23 to 24000. Im not frustrated at all. Im just laughing at slimy of a business they try to make it. I can buy now, but I have plenty of time to get this done later.
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Getting a quote from CarMax was going to be my next suggestion relative to putting an "accurate" figure on your trade-in. $23000 to $24000 invoice with $6500 for your trade-in would put you at a trade diff of $16500-$17500 so your number is doable it would seem.

On our second new car, we couldn't get the dealer to put enough in to our trade-in so we got a figure from CarMax however we ended up selling it to an individual for the same amount as the CarMax offer.

As for how bad some(not all) salesman are, I knew a car salesman who upon determining that the customer was going to leave and shop prices ("I just want your lowest price!!") would write a "low ball" price on the back of his business card handing it to the customer while stating "I can't sell you the car for this, but I personally wouldn't pay any more than this for it..." then send them on their way.
 
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BAMAFAN IN NY

BAMAFAN IN NY

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sabanball said:
1) Get pre-approved through your financial institution. It does no harm to let the dealer know since it conveys that you are indeed a buyer and gives you leverage in deal. From experience, plenty of people who state "I have good credit" in fact do not, so the dealer always expects the worse. AFTER you have negotiated price, then you can ask the dealer to see if they can get you a better rate (You don't have to disclose your actual approved rate if you catch my drift...approved at 3.5% then tell dealer you got it at 2%) and then go with the better rate.

2) Use the internet to find the EXACT new vehicle you want with options to determine invoice price. Normally the automotive manufacturer sites have a copy of the window sticker you can download once you find the vehicle. Basically just build out the vehicle you want and then find the exact match(or closest match) at a nearby dealer. Go to truecar.com and spec out the exact same vehicle(same options, etc. and match up MSRP) to obtain the invoice price (I confirmed the truecar.com invoice price on my 2012 Rubicon by using the jeep forums as well). Also use the internet/manufacturer site to determine if there would be any incentives to apply. If applicable, deduct those from the invoice price. Determine what you want to pay (invoice plus + $200 for example) plus taxes, title and fee.

3) Now that you are an EDUCATED BUYER(not a tire kicker or shopper), go to the dealer that has the vehicle you want on the lot and PURCHASE THE VEHICLE.

A dealer will not let a buyer leave the lot if they can do the deal. We have purchased 2 new vehicles in the last 3 years in this manner and it really is that simple.

All this waiting until the end of a month (or quarter), getting lowest prices and then shopping other dealers (who do not have the vehicle you want on the lot), and playing whatever games is basically a waste of your time and the dealers.

Just my .02 and good luck.
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True car is bull crap. Just ask for the invoice. True Car charges the dealer 400 bucks for steering you to their dealership. Who do you think pays that 400? 2 customers walk in the door.. 1 with a true car printout, 1 without. I can sell the car 400 bucks cheaper to the 1 without the printout and still make the same profit.
 
sabanball

sabanball

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BAMAFAN IN NY said:
True car is bull crap. Just ask for the invoice. True Car charges the dealer 400 bucks for steering you to their dealership. Who do you think pays that 400? 2 customers walk in the door.. 1 with a true car printout, 1 without. I can sell the car 400 bucks cheaper to the 1 without the printout and still make the same profit.
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Not all dealers will just show the customer an invoice as soon as they hit the showroom.

Also I never advised the purchase of truecar services but instead recommended using their site to determine the invoice amount (along with car forums as well).
 
CrimsonForce

CrimsonForce

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Have you looked at barely used CR-V's? I have seen several 2013 CR-V's with 6K miles or less for around $20K. That's unless you specifically wanted brand new..
 
G

gmart74

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a bunch of people have told me that 1 yr old hondas with low miles is a red flag. people tend to keep their hondas unless something is wrong with them right from the start.
 
seebell

seebell

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gmart74 said:
a bunch of people have told me that 1 yr old hondas with low miles is a red flag. people tend to keep their hondas unless something is wrong with them right from the start.
Click to expand...
I tend to agree. Like "why did that guy trade in that vehicle after 6 months and 7000 miles?" Unable to make the payment? Or lemon?
 
Bama Reb

Bama Reb

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I like to buy "demos" over new vehicles. They are generally from the previous year's "new car" fleet and are initially driven by sales or service people for about the first 15-20K miles. After that they are usually "traded in" for one from the next year's selection.
I like them because (1) You don't have to absorb the new-car depreciation. (2) All the normal maintenance issues that occasionally occur with a new vehicle have been fixed. (3) The dealership usually provides an extended warranty (usually up to 100K miles) and (4) You can generally save a pile of money when compared to the price of a new (current year) vehicle.
If you go this route though, be sure to do a detailed inspection (with the sales person) of the vehicle you intend to buy and and make sure any issues you find are addressed and fixed (at no cost to you) before you take delivery.
 
G

gmart74

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So when you get that dealer invoice number, do you still feel it is appropriate to add in the 830 freight, 300 processing, then tags tax title? Up here it is 6% tax, so 1130_1400+200 adds almost 3k to the invoice. So if they are selling a 27k msrp vehicle for 24k by the time you leave you are right back to 27k.
 
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