3 cookbook reviews

bayoutider

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Oct 13, 1999
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Here are a few more cookbook reviews for all you cookbook collectors. I own these books and the review or comments are strictly my own.

Seldom do you find a cookbook that not only tells you how to cook a vegetable but how to plant it, when to plant it, how much the plant should yield and when to pick it. This is one of the better vegetable books to have on the shelf. It could replace Betty Crocker and the Farmers Almanac.

Finally a cookbook that explains good ingredients. Which bottle of balsamic to buy and which parmesan do you grate over spaghetti and which one do you eat with fruit. There is a lot of information that will make you a better cook if you take the time to read it. The author is highly opinionated so take it for what it’s worth. I can only say I agree with some of the brand names he drops throughout his book. You may never buy another box of Kraft Mac&Cheese.

This book is my new found love. For those who have been intimidated with gourmet cooking, Anthony Bourdain’s book shows you what a wimpy, wussy, slacker you have been. Read this book please. Anthony takes Alton Brown to school when it comes to organizing a kitchen. He uses a no BS approach to cooking, a sharp knife and a good pot. Anthony was even thinking when he designed the book, heavy paper and a binding that allows the book to lay open on the table. You get a mini lesson in French. Cote de Boeuf is bone-in rib steak, Pommes Puree is mashed potatoes, a Cassoulet is nothing more than a bean stew (think chili or thick bean soup). You can really wow your friends with a few catch phrases.

This is my must have pick of the year so far.

Sample Recipe:
Boeuf Bourgignon

2 lbs. "paleron" of beef or "chicken steak" (or same amount of shoulder or neck) cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
4 onions, thinly sliced
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup red Burgundy
6 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 garlic clove
1 bouquet garni
A little chopped parsley

Equipment: Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed pot; wooden spoon; large spoon or ladle

Serves 6.

STAGE ONE
Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat until it is almost smoking. Add the meat, in batches-not all at once!-and sear on all sides until it is well browned. You dump too much meat in the pot at the same time and you'll overcrowd it; cool the thing down and you won't get good color. Sear the meat a little at a time, removing it and setting it aside as it finishes. When all the meat is a nice, dark brown color and has been set aside, add the onions to the pot. Lower the heat to medium-high until the onions are soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over them. Continue to cook for about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the red wine. Naturally, you want to scrape up all that really good fond from the bottom of the pot with your spoon. Bring the wine to a boil. STAGE TWO
Return the meat to the pot and add the carrots, the garlic and the bouquet garni. Add just enough water (and two big spoons of demi-glace, if you have it) so that the liquid covers the meat by one-third-meaning you want a ratio of 3 parts liquid to 2 parts meat. This is a stew, so you want plenty of liquid, even after it cooks down and reduces. Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer and let cook for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender (break-apart-with-a-fork-tender).

You should pay attention to the dish, meaning check it every 15 to 20 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot to make sure the meat is not sticking or, God forbid, scorching. You should also skim off any foam or scum or oil collecting on the surface, using a large spoon or ladle. When done, remove and discard the bouquet garni, add the chopped parsley to the pot and serve.
 

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