Looking to get a new car - any recommendations

DzynKingRTR

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So my car has died. It has an electrical issue that cannot be found. Rather than spend thousands of dollars trying to track down the issue, I have decided to cut my losses and just buy a new (new to me) car. I have always wanted a beamer, but people keep trying to talk me out of it. I have owned 3 Hondas in my life and I want something different. Anybody have any recommendations on something?
 

92tide

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So my car has died. It has an electrical issue that cannot be found. Rather than spend thousands of dollars trying to track down the issue, I have decided to cut my losses and just buy a new (new to me) car. I have always wanted a beamer, but people keep trying to talk me out of it. I have owned 3 Hondas in my life and I want something different. Anybody have any recommendations on something?
never owned a bmw, but a couple of neighbors have and as the car gets older, they seemed to have to spend a lot of money on maintenance. we are on our second mazda and really like them. they are fun to drive and reliable although our 2008 is getting a little long in the tooth. i'm sure you could find a 2-3 year old one for a good price. our second one is a second half 2016 model which had all of the new safety features.
 

Bamabuzzard

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never owned a bmw, but a couple of neighbors have and as the car gets older, they seemed to have to spend a lot of money on maintenance. we are on our second mazda and really like them. they are fun to drive and reliable although our 2008 is getting a little long in the tooth. i'm sure you could find a 2-3 year old one for a good price. our second one is a second half 2016 model which had all of the new safety features.
My first truck was a Mazda. You couldn't get it not to run right! LOL! Very good vehicle. Regarding the BMW's, I've heard that before. They begin to require a lot of maintenance as they age. Sounds like me. :biggrin2:
 

4Q Basket Case

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I've actually had 3 BMWs. A 2000 Z3, a 2009 328 convertible, and a 2012 650 convertible. Had a good experience with all of them, but sold the 650 before a design flaw in the engine manifested itself in some big (5-figure) repair bills.

You have to do the maintenance, and you have to do it on time.

There are several BMW forums, and you can pick up some really good information there. For example, I backed out of the purchase of a 335 because of a thing called the high-pressure fuel pump (google that or HPFP, and you'll find reams of information).

They finally got that right, but it took years. Redesigned the engine that was in my 650, and the new version doesn't have the same problem that the old one did.

Point being, do your research, discover weaknesses, and make your decision with them in mind. Maintain the car like it was a prize puppy, and I'm not kidding.

I've had good experience with CarMax. The downside is that you pay more than you would for the same car from a regular dealership. There are several upsides that, in my opinion, make the higher price money well spent. #1, you can search all over the country for the combination you want. Try that with a local dealer. #1b -- the price is the price. Take it or leave it. No haggling. #2, they service anything they sell. #3, you can return the car within 5 days for any reason whatsoever, but that carries a big caveat. More on that in a minute.

I love the fact that, if you're just a bit patient and watch the site closely, you can get a 3-year old BMW with 12K miles (my 650), for less than half the new sticker. I've found that, within reasonable limits, age affects price more than mileage. So when I'm in the market for a car, I have a good idea of what I want, and watch the site like a hawk. Then, when one shows up that's 3 years old and has less than 15K miles, I'm on it. You can also view the Carfax on every car, for free.

I bought all three BMWs there, and my current Boxster (yes, I like German cars).

Caveats: If you find a car you want in, say, Salt Lake City (or anywhere else), you can get it shipped to the CarMax closest to you. The shipping fee is for shipping, nothing else, and is therefore gone. You don't have to buy the car, but you won't get your shipment money back. Even if you do buy the car, they won't credit the shipping fee toward the purchase.

The other thing is the return policy. They trumpet the 5-day thing pretty loud. What they don't tell you is that, first, it's in place of a pre-purchase inspection. You have to get the car inspected after you buy. If the inspection turns up something you don't like, so long as it's within 5 days, you get to return the car and un-do the purchase. The trade-in, however, is a different matter. Your old car is probably already sold at auction, and the trade won't be undone. So you're without a car until you make another decision.

Which is why I recommend CarMax for only name-brand quality manufacturers, 4 or fewer years old, with less than 20K miles. Chances of a lemon are still not zero, but they're a lot smaller than would otherwise be the case.

Happy hunting!
 
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DzynKingRTR

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Dec 17, 2003
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I've actually had 3 BMWs. A 2000 Z3, a 2009 328 convertible, and a 2012 650 convertible. Had a good experience with all of them, but sold the 650 before a design flaw in the engine manifested itself in some big (5-figure) repair bills.

You have to do the maintenance, and you have to do it on time.

There are several BMW forums, and you can pick up some really good information there. For example, I backed out of the purchase of a 335 because of a thing called the high-pressure fuel pump (google that or HPFP, and you'll find reams of information).

They finally got that right, but it took years. Redesigned the engine that was in my 650, and the new version doesn't have the same problem that the old one did.

Point being, do your research, discover weaknesses, and make your decision with them in mind. Maintain the car like it was a prize puppy, and I'm not kidding.

I've had good experience with CarMax. The downside is that you pay more than you would for the same car from a regular dealership. There are several upsides that, in my opinion, make the higher price money well spent. #1, you can search all over the country for the combination you want. Try that with a local dealer. #1b -- the price is the price. Take it or leave it. No haggling. #2, they service anything they sell. #3, you can return the car within 5 days for any reason whatsoever, but that carries a big caveat. More on that in a minute.

I love the fact that, if you're just a bit patient and watch the site closely, you can get a 3-year old BMW with 12K miles (my 650), for less than half the new sticker. I've found that, within reasonable limits, age affects price more than mileage. So when I'm in the market for a car, I have a good idea of what I want, and watch the site like a hawk. Then, when one shows up that's 3 years old and has less than 15K miles, I'm on it. You can also view the Carfax on every car, for free.

I bought all three BMWs there, and my current Boxster (yes, I like German cars).

Caveats: If you find a car you want in, say, Salt Lake City (or anywhere else), you can get it shipped to the CarMax closest to you. The shipping fee is for shipping, nothing else, and is therefore gone. You don't have to buy the car, but you won't get your shipment money back. Even if you do buy the car, they won't credit the shipping fee toward the purchase.

The other thing is the return policy. They trumpet the 5-day thing pretty loud. What they don't tell you is that, first, it's in place of a pre-purchase inspection. You have to get the car inspected after you buy. If the inspection turns up something you don't like, so long as it's within 5 days, you get to return the car and un-do the purchase. The trade-in, however, is a different matter. Your old car is probably already sold at auction, and the trade won't be undone. So you're without a car until you make another decision.

Which is why I recommend CarMax for only name-brand quality manufacturers, 4 or fewer years old, with less than 20K miles. Chances of a lemon are still not zero, but they're a lot smaller than would otherwise be the case.

Happy hunting!
I worked inventory for CarMax way back when I was in school. Employees could get the car at cost. I bought my first car there because I got it dirt cheap. I would not buy one from there because of the high mark-up they had. Maybe I should bet a job there and work the minimum 30 days buy a car and quit. Unless they do not have that deal anymore. They were owned by Circuit City then.
 

BamaSC

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So I’ve owned 7 BMWs. I’ve had 2 X5s, a 328 coupe, a 335 coupe, 2 535 sedans, and a M3 coupe. I still have the M3 and the most recent 535, with a new 540 on the way that just entered the paint shop today that will replace my current 535. Of all those BMWs over the last 12 years I’ve had a grand total of zero issues. So far, maintenance on the M3 has been minimal but I know it’s going to get expensive as it ages. But what I can tell you after driving well over half a million miles on BMWs is they are very reliable, very good cars, and well worth their resale value.
 
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crimsonaudio

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Over the years I've slowly migrated to all Toyota / Lexus - there's a reason they remain atop the list of most reliable cars annually. I can't imagine buying anything else at this point, but reliability and longevity are big motivators for me when purchasing something which depreciate like automobiles.
 

DzynKingRTR

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FWIW, be aware that if you get a car like a BMW you will be feeding it premium gas unless you want to accept decreased performance.
I know about the premium gas for BMW (or most German cars.) Has anyone ever had a diesel? There is one I have found, but I am a little hesitant about getting a diesel.
 

Go Bama

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I finally got bored with Hondas (CRX, Civic, Accord, Ridgeline and 2 CRV's) and Toyotas (Camry) so in 2013 I bought a Mustang convertible. It's a ton of fun, not too expensive ($22,000 one year old), has 122,000 miles and so far all I've done is had it serviced regularly. After almost 6 years it still drives great and I regularly get compliments on how it looks.

When I'm done with the Mustang, my next, and probably final vehicle will be a truck. I'm hoping to get about 250,000 on the Mustang. We'll see.

FWIW, I think the most practical car ever is the Honda CRV. Good milage, comfortable, very reliable (over 450,000 between the two with zero issues). Only thing is it's about as much fun as a van.
 

92tide

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I know about the premium gas for BMW (or most German cars.) Has anyone ever had a diesel? There is one I have found, but I am a little hesitant about getting a diesel.
i had a volkswagen diesel. loved the car. it ended up being bought back by volkswagen in the settlement they reached after the emissions problems they had.
 

NationalTitles18

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Over the years I've slowly migrated to all Toyota / Lexus - there's a reason they remain atop the list of most reliable cars annually. I can't imagine buying anything else at this point, but reliability and longevity are big motivators for me when purchasing something which depreciate like automobiles.
I'm pretty much the same way. I've only bought a Honda or Toyota since 2003. I would consider a Ford or Chevy only when I decide to get in the market for a truck.
 

4Q Basket Case

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FWIW, be aware that if you get a car like a BMW you will be feeding it premium gas unless you want to accept decreased performance.
Fact. I’ve never put anything other than premium in any of my German cars, so I can’t say how much performance would decrease.

But my longtime and highly trusted mechanic says that, while a single tank of 87 or 89 octane probably wouldn’t hurt anything, if you do it a lot over a longer period of time, you can damage the engine.

And the cost of repairing that damage will be far greater than any pennies you might save on gasoline.

If buying premium causes you a lot of heartburn, don’t get either a BMW or a Porsche.
 

DzynKingRTR

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I have owned 3 Hondas in my life. If I have to make a change, I want a new direction. My first car was a Shelby Charger. It required premium. I did not mind.
 

Bamaro

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Fact. I’ve never put anything other than premium in any of my German cars, so I can’t say how much performance would decrease.

But my longtime and highly trusted mechanic says that, while a single tank of 87 or 89 octane probably wouldn’t hurt anything, if you do it a lot over a longer period of time, you can damage the engine.

And the cost of repairing that damage will be far greater than any pennies you might save on gasoline.

If buying premium causes you a lot of heartburn, don’t get either a BMW or a Porsche.
That is not the case with most modern engines and hasn't been for many years. Owners manual may say either premium required or recommended depending on how the computer handles lower octane ratings. The primary issue is pre-ignition, aka knock. Engines stating premium recommended handle knock both short and long term by retarding the ignition timing enough. If it says required, I would definitely use it to be safe.
 

crimsonaudio

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But my longtime and highly trusted mechanic says that, while a single tank of 87 or 89 octane probably wouldn’t hurt anything, if you do it a lot over a longer period of time, you can damage the engine.
This was true before modern, computerized motors were common, but now all you lose is performance (roughly 2% on the average vehicle). The computer will sense any knocking and adjust the ignition as needed for a clean burn.

There's literally no issue running 87 octane in a modern (computerized) auto that recommends premium, even for the entire life of the engine.
 

Bamabuzzard

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This was true before modern, computerized motors were common, but now all you lose is performance (roughly 2% on the average vehicle). The computer will sense any knocking and adjust the ignition as needed for a clean burn.

There's literally no issue running 87 octane in a modern (computerized) auto that recommends premium, even for the entire life of the engine.
This is what I was told as well by someone who has worked in the automotive (engineering side) industry for 30+ years.
 

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