Flying to Vietnam with the family tomorrow

Bodhisattva

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The next morning, we left Hanoi to go spend two days on a boat in Ha Long (Descending Dragon) Bay.

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We got the two cabins in the back of the boat so we could have balconies.

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After dropping of our bags, we went to the dining area at the front of the boat to enjoy some refreshments while we traveled out into the bay.

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There are nearly 2000 jungle-covered granite formations of various size. It's easy to see how the bay was named after a dragon.

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Bodhisattva

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The next morning, we went to Luong Cave, which is actually a natural tunnel through one of the islands. The island is shaped like a doughnut, and one you pass through the tunnel you are in a lagoon. The island is inhabited by monkeys! Ha Long Bay has such a lost world setting. It's mesmerizing. I can see why much of the background footage for King Kong (2005) was filmed here.

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Bodhisattva

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We traveled from Ha Long Bay back to Hanoi the following morning. We are almost done visiting the north, but our flight to Hue would not be for many hours. So, we had time to play tourist and foodie again in Hanoi.

We first went for an early lunch, and the food of choice (of course) was pho. There are three distinct regions food-wise in Vietnam. Different spice palate. Different rice and noodles. The north has the least creative of the three regions. So, while it is not as good as the South (which I had earlier on the trip and is the style of Lan's cooking I get at home) or the Central (which I will soon try and by reputation is the best in the country), it is more than tasty for me. Pho is one of my favorite foods.


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We then walked around looking for souvenirs. Found a propaganda poster shop and picked up a few for various friends. My libertarian and conservative friends found the posters to be stupid-funny. It's communist propaganda, after all. My leftist friends found these Cold War era posters to be accurate grievances of life today in America and the world. Bless their hearts. LOL!


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More snack opportunism:


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Lan got the heads up on a family pottery shop. It is not in walking distance, so we take a taxi. I'm in the passenger seat; Lan and Lily are in the back. I'm concentrating on the neighborhoods we are driving through. But, after about 20 minutes of lefts and rights, I'm starting to wonder what is going on. Now, taxi drivers can be sketchy when tourists are their customers. No surprise. What should have been a 100,000 VND drive was now 200,000 VND (less than $8). Eh, so what on overcharging $4. Except that Lan was questioning taxi driver's ethics, and he responded to her in a way he shouldn't have. My Vietnamese skills are very modest, but I picked up on enough to know he was cussing out my wife. And I'm sitting in the passenger seat two feet away from this fool.

Everything happened fast. We are approaching the pottery shop, and the taxi is starting to pull over. I turned and asked Lan if he said the things to her that I thought he said. Lan stayed silent, which is a confirmation. I put my glasses in their case, and I put the case in my backpack at my feet. The car stops, I open the door and half-way get out of the car. The backpack is now outside, so as not to be in the way. My right foot is braced against the ground. BLUF, I'm at least eight inches taller and maybe 100 pounds heavier than this guy who has insulted my wife while trying to steal from us. And he's encumbered by his seatbelt. I'm not and have all the arm reach and leverage. Lan and Lily are now out of the car and standing on the sidewalk. I request Lan translate, so there is no miscommunication. I tell the driver, who is yelling that he wants his inflated fee, to shut up and that he has one opportunity to apologize. He chose poorly. So, in sum, he began by freaking around; he finished by finding out.

After the taxi driver tore down the street a lot worse for wear, Lan admonished me. "Sorry, babe. It's just the way I am."


We went into the pottery shop and had a wonderful conversation with the young lady who runs the place. Her grandfather started the business, and her father and uncles have kept the tradition alive. We spent over an hour there, and Lan bought eight vases. Impressively talented family.

We then take a taxi (this time with a non-idiot driver) to the airport for the flight to Hue.
 
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Bodhisattva

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I did ask if he would take a selfie with me, but he wasn't interested.

Of all the stupid things ... I'm a generous tipper and was even more so while on vacation. With tip, he probably would have received his goal in trying to rip us off. He didn't seem to be a very deep thinker.
 
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Bodhisattva

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We arrive in Hue late in the evening. We drop our luggage off at the hotel. Lily is done for the nigh and heads off to her room. Lan and I are up for a drive-by tour of the city and a late dinner. Lan was born here and spent her early childhood in Hue.

Early the next morning we head to the multi-walled (three) complex that was the ancient capital of Vietnam. As you get closer to the center and pass through more gates, the former inhabitants of that area were of higher and higher status. Behind the first wall is where the high officers and their families resided. Behind the second wall is living quarters of the military generals and various advisors (department leaders) who serve the royal family. Behind the last wall is the residence of the royal family.


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Ngo Mon Gate - the main entrance to the Forbidden City, the innermost section where the royal family lived.


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Bell tower:


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Drum tower:

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Dien Thai Hoa (Thai Hoa Palace) is where the king met with his officers twice a month. It is located right behind Ngo Mon Gate.


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As I mentioned up thread, it was extremely hot and humid on this day. And, as you can see, there was minimal shade. While in the old city, it was a struggle.
 
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Bodhisattva

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Then to Huong Long area of Hue.

The Thien Mu pagoda, the oldest Buddhist pagoda in Hue, is 400 years old.


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Guardians:

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Do you recall the infamous event where the Buddhist monk set himself on fire to protest against the South VN government? In resisting the communists, Diem should not have alienated the Buddhist community. Stupid, short-sighted policies.


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Bodhisattva

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After dinner, we went on a dragon boat ride on the Huong River and listen to Nha Nhac Cung Dinh, a style of music under the Nguyen dynasty.

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We lit candle lanterns and released them into the river. A prayer for lost loved ones.


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Later we took a tricycle tour from the boats, around the ancient capital, a stop for a late night snack, and then to our hotel.

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Bodhisattva

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Hoi An. This city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and goes all the way back to the 2nd century as part of the Cham Empire. It became part of Vietnam in the 15th century and in the next century, Hoi An became a trading city with Vietnamese, Chinese, and Japanese merchants setting up permanent residence, and their parts of town having the distinct architecture and temples of their home countries. Unfortunately, the famous Japanese Bridge (completed in 1595) was closed and covered for renovation. I'll see it next time. Today, besides being a beautiful little city with great shops and street food along its canals, it is known for the place to buy silk lanterns.

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On the bridge, we bought floating lanterns from an 86-year-old lady. Lan talked to her for a while and respectfully called her "grandmother." The woman was happy for the conversation. The lanterns cost less than $1 each. I gave her the VND equivalent of $60 for three.

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As we did the other evening, we set the lit lanterns adrift and said prayers for our loved ones who have passed away.

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Bodhisattva

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After dinner, we went to see an outdoor play that told the story of the rivalry/alliance/rivalry between the Viet (the area roughly of what is now northern Vietnam) and the Champa (roughly today's central Vietnam). As with everything else on this trip, the history and mythology of this country is fascinating. I have so much more to learn.

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The Champa had elephants in their army. Roll Tide!

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Today, the Chams are another minority group (maybe 200,000 people) within Vietnam. (Their largest population is in Cambodia.) In their traditional religion, they worship an elephant-god.
 

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Bodhisattva

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We rolled into to Da Nang late that evening. Beautiful coastal city that my wife and I could see us living in for several months out of each year in the near future. One of the amazing attractions here is the Dragon Bridge. We arrived too late to get close enough for good pictures. Here is a YouTube clip that will give you an idea:



And here it is on our drive to Ba Na Hills the next morning:


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Ba Na Hills is a mountain-top resort and quasi-theme park. We took the gondola to the top of the mountain.

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Back at sea level to enjoy some beach time:


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On the next visit I will make sure to linger in this city and bring my scuba gear.
 

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Bazza

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Thanks once again for a most informative and interesting pictorial glimpse into a world I/we never knew existed, Bodhi. It's just so fascinating....I totally get why you enjoyed your visit so much. That was very kind of you to share some good will with the lantern making lady. Paying it forward is such a redeeming principle..... (y)
 
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Bodhisattva

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Thanks once again for a most informative and interesting pictorial glimpse into a world I/we never knew existed, Bodhi. It's just so fascinating....I totally get why you enjoyed your visit so much. That was very kind of you to share some good will with the lantern making lady. Paying it forward is such a redeeming principle..... (y)
Thank you, my friend. This was such a whirlwind trip; we were on the go all day and all night. And yet there was so much we didn't see. Maybe focus on the Mekong Delta next time? But I also want to spend more time in places like Da Nang. Until the next trip ...
 
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