Watched a 'new to me' surf DVD last night called "The Union Blue Project" which was put together to help raise funds for a friend's stepson who had cancer. This was quite a few years ago and unfortunately he lost the battle. The DVD is a compilation of several different surf photographers so a very good variety of locations and surfing. Here's just one segment.....
Found out a little more about what app my friend is using with his Apple watch.....it's called Dawn Patrol. As much as I gripe about us going backwards in society, I have to admit - we're absolutely charging on the technology front!
This is his post from today......
And a video I found on You Tube that in general discusses using an Apple Watch and surfing.....
This is a little story about my pal Larry. Larry is an older lifelong Orange County surfer, a “local” if you will. To say that Larry might have gotten a tad crusty in recent years would be putting it mildly, he has kind of turned into a grouch.
So, one day recently Larry decided to go surfing down at “Trestles,” just south of San Clemente. Unfortunately for Larry he timed it kinda bad as it was about 4 P.M. when he pulled onto the 405 freeway heading south. Eight lanes of bumper to bumper gridlock. “Look at all these idiots, dam I wish they would all just go home.” I guess it didn’t occur to him that is exactly what most of them were trying to do. When one dude in a Honda Civic tried to change lanes to go for an upcoming exit Larry gunned it so the guy couldn’t make the change. They both traded one finger salutes and Larry again shouted, “Freaking idiot.”
It went like that all the way to San Clemente where it finally let up a little bit. By then Larry was not in the best of moods. But he knew there was a good south swell running, and the winds were good, so the surf was obviously gonna be worth the horror drive down there to get it. There was a tiny bit of optimism in his gate as he made his way down the trail to get to the beach.
Finally on the beach and looking out to the surf things took a turn for the worse. The surf was excellent, but there were probably close to eighty people already out there. Looked like ants on a left over peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Larrys mood went from bad to bitterly bad. None the less he was already there so he was determined to paddle out and try to snag a few sets in the middle of all of these “idiots.” On this day everybody in Larrys line or sight was an idiot.
After about five waves where he was dropped in on by at least one or two “idiots” Larry finally caught a good set wave all to himself. As he was screaming down the line and gaining speed to make a fast section he noticed a guy paddling his brains out to try and make it over the shoulder in front of him. Right in the path that Larry had to take to make the wave. He yelled at the guy and tried to wave him off so he could make the section, but the dude was a beginner and was in panic mode. He paddled right into Larrys path. Larry pulled up as high as he could to try and make it around the guy, but the dude was coming too fast and Larry ran him down big time. The result of which was a lot of screaming, name calling and threats. Plus, dings in both of their boards. Larrys last words to the guy were, “Go home you freaking idiot.”
Of course, after all the ranting and raving over this mishap, it left Larry himself right in the middle of the lineup. He jumped on his board and started to scramble as fast as he could to make it over the shoulder of the oncoming wave. On that wave was one of the better surfers in the area and he was coming down fast and hard. Larry saw him and paddled as fast as he could to get around the wave. All of his years of surfing were telling him to stop and let the guy go by, that was the right move in this situation. But he was committed to trying to paddle around the wave and that’s what he did. The surfer on the wave was yelling and trying to wave him off, but to no avail. Luckily for Larry the guy was a good enough surfer to see that he was not going to make it past him and did a big cutback just before running Larry down. The spray from the cutback went right into Larry’s eyes and as the guy went past him the dude on the wave calmly called out, “Go home you IDIOT.”
Larry went home, took a long look in the mirror and pondered the meaning of life.
Here's a 4.5 ft. Black tip caught last week just south of NSB inlet, tagged and returned to the surf . If you notice the teeth when the hook is being removed. that's the reason no one has died or had a limb missing. They are fish eaters and we're boney and don't taste good.