My Maytag washing machine is rusting
- Thread starter AlistarWills
- Start date
Trying to not spend a lot of money. Looking at prices of new ones is annoying me. I remembering buying these 20 years ago and they did not cost nearly as much as they do now.
I have been repairing mine for 15 years. It works like new, but it is a hassle when it breaks. I have literally replaced every electronic component at least once, as well as the drum belt. I get you.
If the Dryer doesn't have electronic controls it is a relatively simple device and parts are readily available for Whirlpool manufactured units like this one. If you do not desire to purchase a new one and not attempt to perform the repair yourself, just about any competent handy man could make it operate reliably again.
You've probably already done this but if not first thing to do is make sure the outlet it's plugged into has the proper voltage.
Hopefully you have some kind of volt meter to do this with.
My range started acting up about a month ago and it turned out to be a problem with the outlet/wiring. It's a 220v just like your dryer.
It works again. I took the back off and use compressed air to blow out any excess lint build-up. It took me a few minutes to get back out from behind the dryer with my still hurt shoulder. It is really bothering me that it is working sporadically now. When I googled this it told me to make sure it is plugged in, (Really?) Then check the breaker (again really?) Since those two obvious things are not the problem. It said check the thermal fuse. I tried checking that and cannot tell if it is bad or not
@Bazza I am pretty sure the outlet is correct since it is plugged into the same outlet for the last 8 years. Unless the outlet has gone bad, but I doubt it is that given the previous issue was it would hum but not start.
@Bazza I am pretty sure the outlet is correct since it is plugged into the same outlet for the last 8 years. Unless the outlet has gone bad, but I doubt it is that given the previous issue was it would hum but not start.
If the thermal fuse was bad, just like the other electrical things you mentioned, the problem would not be sporadic. Loose connector somewhere, maybe?
I'm not expert but that is very well what might be happening with a faulty outlet. Worth checking the outlet out before doing anything else.
In my case, one of the 110v feed wires was completely corroded and no longer even making contact. No telling how long that had been festering without my knowledge.
I was sure I had an issue with my range and was pleasantly surprised to find it was just the outlet. A trip to HD and an hour later it was repaired. Less than a $10 repair, not counting my time.
That was my thinking. the sporadic working seems odd. I did tighten a few things up while I was back there.
If the outlet has gone bad I can just call maintenance to have a look at it. I will do that this week.
fyi, foxes appliance down near clayton state (just south of the airport) has pretty much every appliance part imaginable.
I had some old Kenmore machines. The start switch was just a momentary contact switch. easy to test and replace. It looks like on some newer machines the push button is actually built into the control board. In that case Mucho dinero.
I can't seem to link the test video.
Easy way to check your washer plug? Plug a lamp or some such into the outlet. It should work. Outlets do go bad. Jiggle the plug around.
www.repairclinic.com
I can't seem to link the test video.
Easy way to check your washer plug? Plug a lamp or some such into the outlet. It should work. Outlets do go bad. Jiggle the plug around.
Kenmore Washing Machine Troubleshooting & Repair | Repair Clinic
Find the most common problems that can cause a Kenmore Washing Machine not to work - and the parts & instructions to fix them. Free repair advice!
www.repairclinic.com
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Just about every trouble shooting process I've even known starts off with checking your power source (voltage in).
It's very easy to do.
Can't tell you how many problems I've seen where it was a problem with power.
On a 220v outlet you have three openings - two are 110v and the other is a neutral. Using a volt meter you should get 110v on two of them (110v & neutral) and 220v on the other two (2 x 110v).
Good luck - please keep us posted.
If you don't have one, get an induction tester - and then never rely on it. I'm sort of joking. Electricians call them "widow-makers" - and then they all have one. It lights up next to AC power. I use it first for all problems like this. I just continually test it against a known hot line or outlet. You have a bad connection. Could be the outlet. Could be where the pigtail connects in the back, or, least likely, the switch. Dryers are simple beasts...
Very nice...but way too complex for an architect.
He needs one more like this:
Neoteck Non-Contact Voltage Tester 12-1000V AC Voltage Detector Pen Circuit Tester Tool with Led Flashlight Beeper Pocket Clip
Very nice...but way too complex for an architect.
He needs one more like this:
Neoteck Non-Contact Voltage Tester 12-1000V AC Voltage Detector Pen Circuit Tester Tool with Led Flashlight Beeper Pocket Clip
hahaha. I've had one like that for years. It's still in the original unopened package. I need to try it out.
My old electrician buddy said all you need is a Wiggy and a no-contact tester. I've still got a nice digital multi-meter but it's too cumbersome and complicated.
How does a landscaper test electricity? Plug tree roots into the outlet?
He's already said his was a 20-year old Kenmore...Have you seen the computers in these new ones?
I have an even older Pentronics model...Very nice...but way too complex for an architect.
He needs one more like this:
Neoteck Non-Contact Voltage Tester 12-1000V AC Voltage Detector Pen Circuit Tester Tool with Led Flashlight Beeper Pocket Clip
hahaha. I've had one like that for years. It's still in the original unopened package. I need to try it out.
My old electrician buddy said all you need is a Wiggy and a no-contact tester. I've still got a nice digital multi-meter but it's too cumbersome and complicated.
How does a landscaper test electricity? Plug tree roots into the outlet?
You know, I've never had a no-contact tester, but I see most electricians using them now. So I will get one. They are not expensive and nice that you don't need to mess around with those goofy prong things.
The one I've always used is a simple one like this that has lights on it:
That joke I made about architects probably pertains more to landscapers, I guess...lol....
Other than volts the only thing we sometimes deal with is resistance in checking solenoids.
I have special device for doing that. And I also have a locator for tracing underground wires in order to find remote valves that have gotten buried over the years. And another device that makes the solenoid chatter so you can hear it - which is pretty cool.
I also have a nice meter I use for my low voltage landscape lighting.
Those things aren't used very much but when you need one they are super handy.
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